Tues 22nd – Wed 23rd May
I arrive at the bus office early. Partly out of character and partly because of stories I’d read online where buses have turned up and left early, leaving people stranded!
Absolutely no worries of this happening to me thou as at 21:15 my 21:00 bus is nowhere to be seen. Being the impatient and punctual person I am, I go to question the whereabouts of my bus. I’m told he’s stuck at a checkpoint and will be here in 10mins. I argue that this isn’t possible as I already know the checkpoint is 20km away so tell him not to fob me off. 21:45 and still no sign of our bus. With a 9 hour journey ahead I’m getting a bit peed off….all I want to do is get on the bus, cwtch up and go to sleep! Finally at 22:10, our bus shows up. There’s someone in my seat which I selected especially at the front so I wouldn’t have anyone reclining into me….I therefore politely make this dude move! Seat back, leg rest down, ear plugs in and pillow blown up – I’m ready for sleep…except I can’t! I read for a bit and it isn’t long until I nod off.
I awake around 3am ish and realise I’ve been asleep for about half the journey. Not too bad going. We make a stop at Chiclayo where some get off and we’re quickly back in the road. I make myself comfy again and promptly fall asleep. I awake temporarily as the stupid vow behind me has her radio blaring! WTF!!!Come on love – ur on a night bus and oriole are sleeping…or well we’re! I take it upon myself to tell her she’s out of order and that people want to sleep and not listen to her crap! This is the one thing I don’t get and really winds me up in this part of the world – everyone thinks it’s fine to just play video clips, music, phone calls, voice messages etc – all through speaker phone! WHY??? Just put ur bloody earphones in! All phones come with them!
Luckily I fall back to sleep after my outburst to woman behind and wake again just as we enter the outskirts of Trujillo and within 20 mins, we’re at the bus depot.
3 backpackers I got chatting to before we left are going to Huanchaco also. I ask hoe they’re getting there and they say I can grab a taxi with them. The bus company try to get us in one of theirs but luckily I ask the price first. They want 25 soles which is 10 over what I’d read a normal cab costs so we decline. I tell them we can get a colectivo for 1-2 soles instead so we ask and find out the bus route is a short walk around the corner so we do that instead. We flag down a red and yellow bus with Huanchaco written on the side and jump in. It costs 2 soles and takes about 20 minutes. An enjoyable ride as I get chatting to a local couple who have sat behind me.
I use Maps Me to track our progress and am able to call to get off as we approach the bottom of my street. I bid farewell to my 3 companions and head towards my new home for the next 4 nights. The street at first glance is nothing great and I wonder where the hell I’ve booked but once the gate is opened, my hostel looks lovely. A big patio courtyard, a big open light airy communal area where I’m greeted by some guests having breakfast and a volunteer shows me to my room. I dump my stuff and go back downstairs and get chatting to the owners when suddenly a well known voice and accent (Geordie) goes I thought that was you – it’s only bloody Lee who I was with for 2 weeks in Montañita!!! He checked in the night before me…small world this backpacking malarkey! As we’re doing the same trail, this cold happen a bit I think!
One thing we both notice about here is that it’s bloody freezing. The 30 degree heat of Mancora is behind us and I dig out my jeans! It’s only going to get colder over the next few months and I wonder if I’ve enough warm clothes…
Beings I had a fair bit of sleep on the bus, I go on a bit of a rekkie of the joint.
Huanchaco is a famous little fishing town in northern Peru. It is said to be the original home of cervice and is near the ancient ruins of Chan Chan which I will visit in the coming days. It is also famous for its surf and in 2012 was approved a World Surfing Reserve.
I wander up some streets and find the church
and go up to the mirador for the views of the town and beach below
Then on to park Victor Raül with its cute little garden
From here I stroll towards the beach
The waves are crashing down, one after the other, even splashing up over the rocks and wall. Definitely not many surfers out in this!
I keep walking down to the far end to see what’s about – mainly just bars and restaurants. I turn back to head towards the pier – which reminds me of Clevedon Pier.
I pay my 1 sole to enter, walk to the end, take a few snaps and stare out to sea for a bit….I do love the sound of the ocean.
I carry on along the coast
passing the famous caballitos de totora.
These are the reed boats (direct translation – reed horses) that the fishermen here use. They’re up and down the northern Peru coast but particularly famous here and date back approx 2500 years. You don’t sit in them like a canoe but more straddle either side of one – a bit like riding a horse. They’re left in the sand like this to dry out.
I hope to be able to catch the fishermen out in them over the next few days – I’ll have to enquire about times. Some fishermen offer you a chance to go out on one – we’ll have to see thou as that sea looks mightily choppy!
I go to a little cafe for some lemon pie and chill back at the hostel whilst the sun has come out for a bit, reading and researching things to do for the next few days and my next stop.
Last nights travel is taking it’s toll so I go for an early dinner and it’s home to bed.
I’m looking forward to a bit of sightseeing as I’m going to head back to the city of Trujillo tomorrow (and I need to buy a SIM card)!